Tom on the Camino

June 10, 2015,  Villafranca del Bierzo

So today’s trek out of Ponferrada was just under 14 miles and significantly easier than the walk there.  It rained fairly hard for the first couple of hours which makes for more quiet and solemnity along the Way.  All the pilgrims are in ponchos or other rain gear that covers their heads.  Packpacks, always an easy identifier, loose their distinction as they too are covered in plastic pouches or part of the poncho the pilgrim is wearing.  With the rain, pilgrims are focused on their footing and most interactions are limited to “Hola” and “Buen Camino”.  But this does give each of us travlers an opportunity to reflect on how far we’ve come, physically, emotionally and spiritually.

There was a group of pilgrims, maybe 20 or so, sort of bunched up as we ascended a bit of a grade out of Cacabelos along today’s path.  I have a tendency to power up hills, that is to say I walk like I drive – more likely to pass than be passed.  Well I got to the crest of the hill in front of the rest and was faced with a fork in the road and not especially clear yellow arrows.  Well I chose “the road less traveled” or the “scenic route”.  I must have been the only one because for the next two hours I didn’t see another pilgrim.  The reassuring yellow arrows were present but appeared only every 20 minutes or so.  I did go through a hamlet that I think had only three older ladies as residents and they did say “Buen Camino” as opposed to how ever you say “What the hell are you doing here?” in Spanish so I took a little comfort in that.  I did finally emerge  out of the forest and vineyards to spy my destination.  Other pilgrims began appearing, the rain had stopped and conversations resumed.

But I have to say that the day of quiet reflection was rather nice.  I may have even gotten some clarity and dare I say insight that was quite nice.  These types of days are easy for us who are blessed with wonderful relationships, fantastic families and friends because no matter that we alone with only thoughts, we are never lonely.

Buen Camino and keep me in your prayers.  You are in mine.

Tom

June 9, 2015,  Ponferrada

Today was a much needed rest day.  It’s amazing what a good night’s sleep and not setting the alarm can do to revitalize the body and the spirit.  Breakfast at 9:00 followed by a very leisurely tour of the city got me looking forward to the next nine walking days and arrival in Santiago.  I went to a lovely church called the Basilica de la Encina. While spending a moment there, a man arrived and opened up the sacristy where he would afix the church seal on my crendential.  I really like getting stamps from churches more than bars.  I then went to the Templar Castle which looks like something out of the movies or Dungons and Dragons or maybe Disneyland.  For a few Euros, I got an English audio player that told all about the Knights Templar and how important they were to the Church and pilgirms of the Camino. Then King Philip IV of France, who owed the Order a lot of money, in 1307 arrested many of the Order’s members in France, torturing them into giving false confessions, and then they were burned at the stake. Under pressure from King Philip, Pope Clement V disbanded the Order in 1312.  Of course we all know that the Knights are still alive and well and living secretively.  🙂

By the way, the selfie was taken from the Castle and I think those mountains behind me will be under my feet for the next several days.

It is such a delight and especially comforting to see fellow pilgrims as I walk through town.  We all seem so obvious to one another even when we aren’t adorned in back packs and trekking poles.  Of course the little limp and multiple foot bandages give away most of us to pilgrims and locals alike.  A smile and a “Buen Camino” seems to refresh our bond instantly.  I am looking forward to getting out early tomorrow heading to Villafranca del Bierzo.  It looks like rain but temperatures will be milder so that’s good.

Buen Camino!

Tom

June 8, 2015

Well today certainly made sure I didn’t forget that the Camino is, after all, a long walk.  Today I left Rabanal at about 7:15 to try to get an early start.  In about 2 hours I did make it to a very important part of the Camino, La Cruz de Ferro, or Iron Cross.  This is the highest point on the Camino Frances.  Tradition holds that placing a stone brought from home at the foot of the cross represents your sins and burdens and atones for those sins.  I had stones from Kathy and me from HHI and home and, in a rather solemn moment, said a prayer and deposited the stones at the foot of the pole holding the iron cross.  I can only hope and pray that the tradition is true.

Well you think it would be all down hill from here, right?  Well it was but it was through some of the rockiest, most treacherous pathways I’ve been on for any extended part.  I stopped for a quick sandwich in Acebo and finally made it to Ponferrada at 4:00 PM.  So today I walked for 8 and ¾ hours, the longest yet, and covered about 20 miles, the furthest yet.  It was the longest day so I wore the T-shirt the Alzheimer’s folks were so nice to provide. I set a personal record of 44,772 steps today.  Sorry if I’m gloatting but this was one of those days that was just hard and I’m glad it’s over and I finished it.  The Camino is a loooong walk.  Did I mention that?

I did have some more outstanding conversations with some simple beautiful people who seem well on their way to making some big decisions so today wasn’t all drudgery, and I did get some great views along the way and the weather was a little warm but beautiful.  My arrival in Ponferrada was welcomed by The Castle of the Templars.  I have two nights here in Ponferrada – I need it after today’s walk – so I hope to get some time and energy to explore the castle and other interesting things in this city.  I’m a Dan Brown fan so this should be fun.

Know that the prayer I said at the foot of the Iron Cross included asking for God’s blessing on each of you and your families and friends.  Please keep me in your prayers too.

Tom

June 7, 2015

Just when I thought I had a day with little to write, the Camino provided.  First let me say that last evening in the main square of Astorga, there was a wedding and so many of the locals were in their finest attire to celebrate at the church.  It could not have been more festive with cheering and confetti and bells ringing.  Shortly after the wedding ended, the BIG football (soccer) game between Spain and Italy started. Well I know having a Triple Crown winner is big in the US but there insn’t anything bigger in Spain than football.  Well when Spain scored the first goal the square erupted like St. Peter’s square does when the crowd sees white smoke from tha Sistine chimney.  Spain did go on to win and there were horns blowing all around town.

Today’s walk was a short 13 miles so I got to Rabanal del Camino at Noon.  There had been reports of some criminal activites along this stretch so all the pilgrims were watching out for each other.  This was pretty easy since there were pilgrims about every 100 feet along the path and the local police were visibly present.  I had a chance to walk with some more delightful people and learn more touching stories.  Thanks to those with whom I walked today.  You made my day and my life richer.

Rabanal is a town that, according to Wikipedia, has a population of 60.  Well I discovered that four of them are Benedictine monks who run a place for pilgirms to rest and rejuvinate.  There was a big Mass and celebration this afternoon and I think all 60 residents were there.  They were playing music as they processed around the church that sounded very Celtic.  I won’t be in Galicia for a few more days but the Irish influence is already obvious.  The symbol on the monastery is three shells for St. James and three stars for the Compostela which in a derivation of Spainish that means “Field of Stars”.  The full name for my destination is Santiago de Compostela.

All in all, today again the Camino provided some things of interest and food for thought.  Tomorrow is big day because I get to the highest elevation of the Camino and will come to La Cruz de Ferro or Iron Cross by 9:30 AM or there abouts.  I have been carrying a stone and one from Kathy since I left home that will be laid at the base of the pole holding the cross.  It is said that the stone represents past sins and that they are forgivin when you leave your stone at the base of the cross along the Camino.  Maybe the rest of the journey will feel lighter to be so un-burdoned.

Continue to be blessed and keep me in your prayers.  Buen Camino,

Tom

June 6, 2015

Today was a day of pleasant surprises.  I left the little hamlet of Villadangos early this morning.  There was little traffic as the day for most had not started yet.  The sounds of the morning in the cool air were delightful.  The normal bird chirping was enhanced with the occasional roaster crow and even coe coe  birds.  There are irrigation channels everywhere so the babbling of the water added to the morning sounds.  Of course with water, there are frogs so they chimmed in as well.  I even came across a snail – no sounds from it – making progress just a little slower than me.

As the sun cleared the trees I was able to shed a long sleave shirt and the sounds of the smaller creatures was replaced by the sounds and smells and even the hazards on the footpath of larger creatures like cows and sheep.

The path was gentle and at about 10:00 decended into the beautiful town of Hospital de Orbigo.  I crossed a bridge that was built on top of a Roman one and was so fortunate that I entered the town as it is about to open it’s weekend jousting festival.  The tents and stands are all set up for the games to begin.  Street vendors were opening their stands and I think I may have gotten the very first piece of almond cake served.

I left Hospital de Orbigo through a couple other small villages with many pilgrims. In one of the villages, a man posed for me in front of his flowers.

The crowds thined as I made my way up an isolated hill climb for a half mile or so only to be surprised again at the top by a man that runs a free cantina along the Camino.  He lives in a little hut and gives away fresh fruit to all the pilgrims.  He is all smiles and just so happy to see all the pilgrims.

From the top of a hill punctuated with a cross, I got my first glimpse of Astorga, my destination for the day.  Astorga has a vibrant main square with a church, no surprise there, that has a bell which is rung by two figures swinging hammers. Astorga is also home of a beautiful Gaudi museum to pilgrims.  The church next to it has a pilgrim on top of one of the spires.

So today was indeed a day full of pleasant surprises.  Some days are just like that!

Buen Camino!

Tom

June 5, 2015

Today’s walk was far from inspitational but I did make progress.  After leaving the charm, grace, excitement and history of the walled part of Leon, I passed through a mostly commercial/industrial area for at least 5 or 6 miles.  The path of the Camino then followed near a moderately busy road, the noise from which obfuscated any chance for introspection.  But then some days are just about heads down progress. I did pass the Leon museum and got a picture and when I entered the town of San Miguel (they even named the town after a popular Spanish beer 🙂 ) I got a picture of another group of storks in their nests.

After a rather nasty thunder storm last evening, the skys cleared somewhat and the temperatures were good for walking today.  I’m glad it stormed while I was in an evening Pilgrim’s Mass – I would not have wanted to be outside during the lightning.

And since I titled this post “Progress”, here’s the update.  My Camino is broken into 34 walking days and I’ve now completed 22 of those with a mere 12 to go.  I have only about 173 miles to go until I get to Santiago.  Sounds pretty easy given that about 327 miles are behind me.  I do have some more mountains in front of me and that means that the scenery will be more interesting.  The highest point on the Camino Frances is coming up for me in three days.  The altitude will be 5,000 feet. I am currently at about 3,000 feet.  But I’m getting ahead of my self.  As I should have learned by now on the Camino, one day at a time and be present in the present. It’s the only thing that is real.

Keep the prayers coming and I’ll do the same.  Promise!

Tom

June 4, 2015

Today is a day of rest and rejuvenation.  I’ve been walking for nine straight days so taking a day to rest was needed.  I have thirteen walking days to go with one more rest day in the middle of those.  I am anxious to be back with my wife and family and friends.

Leon is a beautiful city in which to be a tourist.  The main Cathedral has over 0.44 acres of stain glass windows.  It’s likely the most beautiful cathedral I’ve seen.

The main square in Leon is very stately yet hosts many sidewalk cafes that serve cold beer, wine and food almost all day long.

Storks are a big thing in this part of Spain.  They seem to nest everywhere.

My hotel in Leon is actually part of another big church and a museum.  In the picture below, My room is one of those windows on the left above one of the cylindrical protrusions.

So tomorrow the walk resumes.  I head from hear to Villadangos del Paramo which is just 13 or 14 miles away.  I’m sure it will be quieter than Leon.  Assuming internet service is good, I’ll try to give another update when I’m there.

Keep me in your prayers and know you are in mine.

Tom

June 2, 2015

Yesterday and today the Camino was again the Camino.  Last evening I met a wonderful couple who met each other last year on the Camino.  They fell in love and were later married.  He is from California and she is from Italy.  This year they are repeating the Camino.  We were have a great conversation and sharing pictures (I have to show off my wife and family of course) when Keith told me about one of his first conversations with another pilgrim last year.  He was in the Biarritz airport waiting for a bus to take him to Saint Jean to start walking.  He met a black woman from South Africa who asked him why he was walking the Camino. His answer wes fairly simple and had to do with an adventure, chance to get away, and a chance to get some exercise.  The woman then told Keith that she wanted to walk the Camino for over thirty years.  Because she was black and lived in South Africa and because of apartheid, she could not travel.  Once apartheid ended she started saving to take the Camino.  She had accumulated enough for a budget of 30 Euros per day for food and lodging.  She wouldn’t buy herself a cup of coffee in the airport becayse it wasn’t in her budget.  Her story just humbled Keith and me alike as our eyes got just a little more moist as he recalled the story.

I walked today with some more delightful people and took a break with who I’ll describe as a group of fun-loving Irish men and women.  We shared a cup of coffee and some laughs after walking for a few hours.  I also came across some interesting sights including a grave yard and some georgeous roses that I know my wife would love to call hers.

This afternoon I arrived in Mansilla and it was farmers market time.  I wish I could cook tonight.  Everything looked so good and fresh.  At the B&B, I was greated by the owner, Javier (that’s with a J , not an X).  He checked me in but before he showed me my room, he poured me a glass of wine and one for himself.  He fortified his white wine with a little brandy I think.  We had chips and olives and then he fixed us each a little ham sandwich.  I think he greets everyone this way.  I guess it’s good that his place only has about 6 rooms.  After we finished the wine, Javier carried my bag to my room.  I don’t think I’ve ever felt as welcomed in an accomidation before.

Tomorrow I have another nice walk to Leon where I will spend two nights and reconnect with some of the folks I started the Camino with three and a half weeks ago.  It’s starting to feel like a reunion.

Buen Camino!

Tom

June 1, 2015

So today was pleasant and simple.  A fairly short walk from Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero.  More nice conversation with a recently retired lawyer from Tucson (yes, we even talked about Sean Miller) and just perfect weather.  Not too many pictures today since the landscape didn’t change too much.  I did wear my “Longest Day” shirt supplied by the Alzheimer’s organization (those are my accomidations behind me).  You’ll recall that one of the reasons I’m on this pilgrimage is to remember my sister-in-law and mother-in-law who both died from the terrible affliction.  If you can spare a few dollars, please click on the “Donate” button and you will be at the Alzheimer’s site to make a contribution to this wonderful organization.

I did take a picture today that shows that everyone’s Camino is different.  You’ve seen many walkers and even a donkey,  Today is a picture of a biker (there are actually many who do the Camino this way) and a man in a kilt.  He’s the only one I’ve seen enjoying the fresh air so freely.

Buen Camino!

Tom

May 30, 2015

Last evening before I left the tiny hamlet of Calzadilla (Pop. 60), I got to spend some of my afternoon with some folks I’d met before and with some I met for the first time.  I then had dinner with some more recent friends.  Today, Sunday, I walked with some people I had never met.  This evening in Sahagun, I sat at a café in the main square and listened to the conversations – all in Spanish so I didn’t understand a word – all around me.  I learned within a day or two of starting the Camino that it’s so much more than a walk.  Today reinforced that.  The richness and depth of the conversations just seems to get better and better with each day. People seem to open up more easily and it takes fewer words to share meaning. The Camino isn’t a 500 mile walk across Spain.  It really is a pilgrimage, a walking retreat.  And there is no significance to the stone I have my hand on.  It was just there and several ‘new friends’ were taking pictures.

Speaking of walking, I did officially pass the half way point.  Actually I discovered that two columns through which I passed is the designated half way point between Roncesvalles (the first town in Spain on the Camino) and Santiago.  So since I started in Saint Jean, France. I’m more than half way in terms of distance.  Just past those columns is the city of Sahagun.  At the Monasterio de la Peregrina they issue the Carta Peregrina when you show your Pilgrim Passport proving that you’ve made it from the beginning.  I’m proud to now be able to say that I’m half way home!  Yea!

Again, thanks to those praying for my safety and good weather.  My feet and legs continue to hold up better than I hoped and today’s weather was perfect – about 70 degrees after 9:30 and beautiful blue skies with a little breeze.  Way to go!

Keep praying for me and I will for you,

Tom