Tom on the Camino

May 20, 2015

Today I left Logrono at 7:45 to try to get ahead of the rain.  Not a pretty day at all weather wise.  Temperatures were in the 50s all day and the sun peaked through the clouds for only a few minutes.  The winds were brisk which seems to exhaust me more that anything.  The path started out going around a lake but there was a great deal of local activity – runners and the like – so it was not peaceful even though I was walking by myself.  Then the path was near a highway for the next 10 miles except for a little town or two.  And then it rained for the last hour or two. All in all, not nearly as nice as the previous days.  Hardly perfect.

Then I passed a vineyard and couldn’t help but notice how the soil was more rocks than dirt and the rocks were baseball or softball size and the dirt reminded me of Georgia clay.  I always imagine that perfect soil for growing grapes is dark and really holds moisture well, like the stuff you buy in bags at the garden store.  Well these vines seemed to think that the soil and rocks they were in were perfect because the vines sure look hardy.

So maybe my day was perfect – just my vision of “perfect” was imperfect.  Going a little deeper, maybe our friends, our closest relationships are perfect too, just our expectations are imperfect.

You do get some time to think while walking the Camino under gray skys, in cool winds and with some rain.

Buen Camino and keep me in your prayers.  You are certainly in mine.

I got to spend a whole day in Logono.  The wine and food here is top notch and things are pretty inexpensive.  A glass of red wine is 1 Euro and it’s good.  Dinner and wine, if you avoid fancy resturants, may run 10 Euros which is about $10.50.

So the biggest Cathedral is Santa Maria de la Redonda built in the thirteen hundreds.  I went there to get my pilgrim passport stamped and of course there was a Mass strating so I got to go to that too.  I then went for the stamp and listened to a lengthy explination of who Santa Maria de le Redonda is but since it was in Spanish I know no more than I did before.  I’ll have to Google it.

The big town square is cool with lots of roses (picture taken especially for my bride) and the obligatory statue of a guy on a horse.  I don’t know who that is either.  I then did a little shopping for more foot care products 🙂

Tomorrow’s weather looks to be cooler with temps in the 50s all day.  That’s a good thing.  About a 25% chance of rain but I can deal with that as long as the path isn’t too steep and I don’t think it will be.  The walk tomorrow will be the longest segment so far.  I need to cover 18.5 miles.

Wish me luck and keep me in your prayers.  You are in mine.

Tom

Monday, May 18, 2015

Today, like yesterday, was a great day for a walk in Spain.  I left Los Arcos at about 8:00.  The weather was perfect, temperatures in the low 60s and very little breeze. The path was mostly flat so a great time to enjoy the peace of the walk.  The fields are mostly wheat, some of which is starting to turn from green to golden yellow indicating that wheat harvest can’t be too far away.  I did pass some olive groves and saw a man pruning the trees and I passed a vineyard and also saw a group of people pruning the vines.  This make me recall a recent Gospel reading and homily by Dan about pruning.  Maybe we can all be more fruitful if we shed some unnecessary things, travel a little lighter, put aside some irrational fears, all that hold us back.

There was a nice hill climb and requisite steep descent as the temperatures rose and I shed a long sleved shirt to walk the rest of the day in short sleves.  I got some great pictures as I entered the towns of Sansol, Torres del Rio and Viana where I stopped for lunch of eggs and asparagus.  In one of the pictures a fellow pilgrim even posed for me.  Of course there was a beautful church Viana where I got my piligram’s passport stamped.  Leaving Viana and entering Logrona also meant that I left the provence of Navarre and entered the provance of La Rioja.  For Spanish wine drinkers, I’m sure you’ve heard of Rioja.  I expect the fields of wheat of the last week to be replace with even more vineyards as I continue to head West.

The walk today was the longest segment so far as I managed to cover about 18 miles and arrive in Logrona at  3:15 PM.  I’m here for two days to give my legs and feet a rest before some more rather long segments and to enjoy the sights and sounds of the capital of La Rioja, the churches and maybe a little wine.

Tom

Today was simply beautiful.  I left Estella at about 8:30 and after a bit of a hill through oak and pine trees, the path wandered through fields of wheat, grapes, olives, what looked like almond trees and some other plant that may be peas or a bean of some sort.  I passed a rest area that had taps for fresh water and red wine – something for the body and something for the spirit.  The weather was perfect — just a few clouds in the sky, gentle breezes and temperatures in the 60’s.  Most of the day I walked in just shorts and a short sleeve shirt.  I arrived in Los Arcos at 2:00 so only a 5 ½ hour walk today.

The Camino Frances was joined in Puente la Reina with the Camino from Jaca and the increase in traffic was noticable today.  A couple days ago I’d estimate that there were likely 5 to 10 pilgrims in a half mile stretch of the path.  Today there were maybe twice that number.

I’m blessed that I am not having foot problems but many, maybe most, are.  I constantly pass other pilgrims sitting on the side of the path changing or adding bandages to their feet.  And at rest stops, most everyone takes off their shoes and socks to let things cool down and virtually everyone has bandages on one or both feet.  It’s funny how something so simple can take on such importance while on this 500 mile journey.

People’s stories are so interesting.  To hear about the challenges and turmoil some of my fellow pilgrims have faced makes me humble and feel so blessed to have the life and the family I’ve been given.  It makes any small challenges each of us face get even smaller.

Keep me in your prayers and  know your are in mine.

Buen Camino!

Tom

May 16, 2015

Today everything went a little slower.  I slept a little longer and took time to see some of the key points of Puente la Reina – a little town of about 2,500 people. There is a nice statue to honor the pilgrims and a bridge build to support the safe movement of midieval pilgrims.  On the way out of town I passed a tiny, very old church that was having Mass so I stopped in.  They were just about to get the to communion part so I got to go.  There were 7 nuns and 4 others at Mass including me.

There was a hill to climb but since all the towns are by rivers and there are hills that drain to make the rivers, every morning is greeted with a hill.  This one wasn’t too bad and I had a great time to enjoy the scenary.  I walked with a nice lady named Jan from Iowa for a mile or two.  She took a couple of the pictures below for me.  It turns out that her husband died of Alzheimer’s last September at age 74. She was walking for him.  Of course I told her about our family and my blog.  I hope she looks it up.  She had a sore foot that was slowing her down so I moved along.

The grape vines are really filling out with leaves and I came across a really cool olive tree.  The trunk must have been 3 feet across.  What character!  Just imagine how many cold winters and hot summers this tree survived and gave fruit.  I’d like to think that when it is finally cut down, a craftsman with use the wood to make bowls that serve food for families for many more generations.  What a legacy that tree would have.

There are various places to stop for refreshments or coffee along the Way.  It’s always striking to see all the packs lined up while the pilgrims take a break to refresh.

I arrived in Estella this afternoon but took the opportunity to see San Pedro de la Rua, built in the 12th centry I think.  Really cool entrance.  Sorry about the hair – it was a little brezzy at the time.

Tomorrow’s weather looks very good so “Thank You” to those responsible for asking God for good weather for my adventure.

Keep me in you prayers.  Know that you are in mine.

Tom

Well today was very different.  I left Pamplona at quarter ‘til eight and headed to the Alto del Perdon (Hill of Forgivness).  Well is wasn’t very forgiving.  It’s a 7% climb of 350 meters (about 1,150 feet) and the weather didn’t help.  It was about 40 degrees and a constant rain.  The wind at the top had to have been in the 30 to 40 mph range.  You had to lean or be blown over.  The cool part was the metal pilgrim sculpture at the top.  The path down was similar and very trecherous because of the wet rocks and bolders.  The trekking poles saved me several times.  Finally it leveled out as I approached Puente la Reina where I am tonight (Friday).  I arrive at 1:30 PM. Those of you that I’ve asked to pray for good weather, you need to pick it up a little.   I did walk about 15.5 miles and with the 33,653 steps today I’m now up to 121,277.

Today was also different because I walked alone.  And that was a good thing.  I noticed some ants very buisily crossing the path and I saw a couple snales, just like in the kids picture books, moving slower than me.  Leaving the business of Pamplona was a welcome relief even if I did need to go over a mountain to see the peaceful fields of wheat.  I then took a break at a church for a little snack and to dry out.

Thank your for your interest in following this blog and please invite others to join if you like.  And of course donations to the Alzheimer’s organization are really appreciated.

Tom

I don’t think I did Pamplona justice.  It’s really a pretty cool place.  The old wall part is where I stayed and explored and it’s surrounded by a very modern, urban area.  The tapas bars were really great on both Calle San Nicolas and Estefeta. Estefeta is real seedy during the day — tattoo parlors and the like — but it turns out that’s where the local go to the tapas bars and the price is about half and every bit as good as St. Nicholas.  The picture that obviously isn’t a tapas bar is the sanctuary at the Cathedral of Santa Maria la Real.  It is really beautiful.

I made it to Puenta la Reina this afternoon.  I’ll post about that walk soon.

Thanks for following along on this great adventure.

So today, Thursday was a day of rest.  Got to sleep in and have a leisurely breakfast.  Then got my Peregrino Passport stamped at the Cathedral of Santa Maria la Real.  I went to Noon mass at Saint Saturnin and then walked the path of the Running of the Bulls.

The picture below is the Pamplona town hall.  The bulls come up the street to the left of the building.

⬇  The picture on the left below is of a typical Pamplona street and actually one of the streets that is on the Camino.  If you look close you’ll see pilgrims with the scalloped shell walking.  I’ll be on this road again in the morning.  The one on the right is the best shot of the front of the Cathedral Santa Maria le Real.

Tomorrow looks like rain, cooler temperatures and a walk of about 15.5 miles. There’s a big hill that has the sculpture that I have at the top of my blog.  Maybe the next time you see that picture, I’ll be in it.

Please keep me in your prayers and know that you are in mine.

Buen Camino,

Tom

Today was awesome.  Partly because the walk was still easier — only 13 miles and taking about 5.5.hours.  The trail was mostly through the woods but then got busier as I approached Pamplona (think Running of the Bulls).  The beautiful city of Arre is about a km from Pamplona.  The first picture is at a little rest spot near Zuriain. The next pictures are of me and Rudi along the Way and then the walk into the city of Arre.  The last picture is of a Tapas place on Calle San Nicholas in Pamplona. This was like bar hopping for foodies.  How cool!

ERRATA:  From yesterday’s blog:  Rudi’s name is with and “i”, not a “y” and Chris and Jade are from Australia, not Canada.  My mistakes. 😦

The conversation inevitably turns to “why” and the answer seems to always center around life transitions or big decisions  – What does retirement mean and what’s next, I’m looking for more from where I am and wanted some time to think, is marriage in the future, are kids.  The Camino is a way to help answer these questions through your own reflections and the voice of God, maybe spoken by other “Peregrinos”.

Buen Camino,

Tom

PS, keep me in your prayers.  You are in mine.

So today from Roncesvalles to Zubiri was significantly easier than yesterday.  Still pretty hilly but only about 430 meters difference in elevation.  Weather has been great — cold in the morning and short sleeves in the afternoon.  I started out on my own but caught up with some of my newest old friends along the path.  I went through several towns and covered about 22 Km (13.5 miles).  Add another 32,000 steps to my log.  I arrived in Zubiri at about 2:00.  Would have made it faster if some of my new old friends hadn’t stopped for a swim in a little creek!  Wow that water was cold.

I met Rudy from Germany.  This is the third leg of his Camino.  He started out in Germany and has walked over 1,600 Km.  He still has the same distance to go as me — 750 Km more!  How inspiring.

Please keep me in your prayers and know that you are in mine!

Tom